I specialize in the MG Midget/Triumph Spitfire 1500 engine only. I provide a clean, well rebuilt motor that will provide miles of smiles. I have done my homework. The 1500 had some design and manufacturing flaws that in many cases caused the motor to fail long before it should have. When I rebuild a 1500 I correct those flaws and build a motor that will last.
When I set out to rebuild my first 1500 I decided I wasn’t going to try for higher compression, more horsepower, or more torque. My goal was to build a solid engine that would be durable with just enough tweaks to give it plenty of “get up and go”. I’m not a speed shop, adding expensive lightweight connecting rods or roller rockers. I wasn’t building a race engine. I was building an engine that I could depend on for my daily driver. That first rebuild was still running well when I sold that car having put nearly 150,000 miles on it.
Though I can’t guarantee those kinds of results with every engine, I am confident that every engine I rebuild will provide years of great service.
Every engine is given a test run in my own car for approximately 50 miles to insure it runs properly, builds adequate oil pressure and water temperature. Then I retorque the head and readjust the valves so that when you receive your engine you too can have confidence your car will take you where you want to go.
A complete rebuild includes the following:
EVALUATION, as an engine is torn down, each part is checked for excessive wear, damage, and failure.
MACHINE SHOP WORK, Magnafluxing of block, head and crankshaft.
Bore to oversize cylinders, turn crankshaft to next undersize, align bore main bearing webs and caps, cam bearing surfaces are checked for wear, if needed bearing surfaces align bored cam shaft journals to receive cam bearings and press in cam bearings, recircling of rod big ends, new small end rod bushings, new valve guides set, valve seats ground, new valves as needed and springs installed, block and head hot tank washed. Finally the rotating assembly from the crank pulley to and including the flywheel is balanced.
JMAC ENGINE SHOP WORK, resize center oil gallery to improve oil supply to #2 and #3 rod bearings, complete cleaning of all oil galleries and channels, new oversized main and rod bearings, new oversized flat topped pistons and rings, new oil pump, new timing chain, and new camshaft installed. Set valve timing. Valve timing is determined by setting crankshaft to 110 degrees ATDC with camshaft positioned at the point #1 intake valve is fully open. The rocker assembly is broken down, cleaned and parts replaced as needed. All new Payen gaskets used. ARP head bolts utilized. All assembly, torque values as described in the shop manual. The oil pan, timing cover, and valve cover are powder coated red. Block is painted black with high temperature paint.
UPDATED MODIFICATIONS MADE,
I drill out the center oil passage to 5/16" to increase the oil flow to the #2 and #3 rod bearings.
The main reason there were thrust washer problems with this engine was an engineering problem from the factory. They allowed an oil clearance from .006-.014, which was too great. It did not take much wear before the thrust washers came out. I make sure that the thrust washers are sized to allow only .002-.004 crankshaft end float.
If you would like for me to rebuild your motor, it must be shipped or delivered to my shop. Rebuilding costs vary greatly with the engine and the extent of the rebuild. Costs can range from $2200 to $3600 depending mostly on the condition for your engine. I will rebuild it, test it, then ship it back to you. Please contact me for more information and details.
Coming soon. Not yet available.